Creating a Basic Pattern to Create Your Own Designer Clothes

Create your own pattern from a set of basic (fitting) patterns you make to fit you.

I prefer starting from basic patterns which in the industry are referred to as slopers. This way you have a base that fits extremely well. You can find these fitting patterns at any fabric store. Even Wal-Mart carries them. Look in the pattern books these are usually somewhere near the middle or in the back of the book.  Choose the one closest to your own measurements. There is a list of measurements on the back of each pattern envelope.

You will need to take complete measurements of yourself following the information and directions on this link.

http://www.threadsmagazine.com/item/4610/how-to-measure-up

This link by Barbara Emodi an Online Extra to Threads #106 is an excellent resource so there is no need to create another of the same.  Use these measurements to check your basic pattern and alter it to fit you as closely as possible. 

After you have completed the paper changes on your basic pattern cut it out of some muslin or other inexpensive woven fabric. Assemble the entire garment using basting stitch on your sewing machine, leaving the back open half way. 
            You will need to put this on and have a friend help you fit your new sloper pattern.  It is not a fashionable garment but is the basis of all fashionable items to come. 

Check the locations of all of the darts and seams to make sure they fall correctly. The waist of the garment sits exactly at your natural waist. If it does not fall correctly, have your friend draw a line in pencil, to relocate the waist to where it should be to fall correctly.

Make sure the seams on the skirt hang in a perfectly straight line. If they don’t, relocate the front and back of the seam to get the location you need. Because of some significant fitting issues in this area my own slopers look a little strange on paper. The front pattern of the skirt looks like a pegged garment and the back appears to be a-line.

Your bust and waist darts should point directly to the apex of your bust. If it doesn’t then you need to pin the correct location and move it over to refit. The elbow darts on the sleeves should fall right at the elbow. Again, if it doesn’t you will have to pin the correct location tear out the dart and re-sew it in the new location.

Next, check the side seams of the bodice (top of the dress) and make sure the seams are all sitting in the correct place. They should fall just under the middle of your arm. If it doesn’t again, have your friend draw the new location.

When you have all of this fitting completed re-sew the garment with all of the changes and re-fit.  Once this fits correctly you are ready to transfer this to paper. You can use brown craft paper but, I would recommend using tag board or poster board because it is sturdier and will give your pencil something to land on when creating a new pattern from your sloper. When you have completed all of this you have a base to create all of the tops and skirts you might like. I will go over creating a sloper for pants in another post.